Paesi fantasma / Monterano, la citta’ abbandonata disegnata dal Bernini
A due passi da Roma, il feudo conserva ancora tracce della bellezza di un tempo. Circondato dalla bellissima Riserva naturale regionale fu molto amato da Mario Monicelli. Al massimo del suo splendore, fu chiamato a ridisegnarla Gian Lorenzo Bernini
Arroccata su una rupe tufacea, fra il gorgoglio del fiume Mignone e il frusciare delle felci, a pochi chilometri dal lago di Bracciano si erge la scenografica Monterano. Territorio abitato fin dall’età del bronzo e poi dagli Etruschi, la città divenne ricca e importante nell’alto Medioevo quando fu sede episcopale di una vasta diocesi.
Quando proprietaria del feudo divenne la famiglia Altieri – la stessa del Papa Clemente X – Monterano conobbe il suo massimo splendore. A ridisegnare la città venne chiamato addirittura Gian Lorenzo Bernini che progettò la chiesa e il convento di San Bonaventura e la facciata del palazzo ducale con la fontana del Leone, divenuto simbolo del comune di Canale Monterano dove vengono conservati gli originali delle opere. Realizzando la porta di San Bonaventura, il Bernini tornò a provare quell’effetto scenico che aveva già scelto per il colonnato di San Pietro: la maestosità della chiesa si apriva agli occhi del visitatore solo all’ultimo momento, nascosta dagli stetti vicoli di Monterano.
Oggi accanto ai resti di questi edifici è possibile ammirare anche quelli di un castello, di una chiesa e di un acquedotto a doppia arcata. Il borgo venne abbandonato progressivamente dalla fine del ‘700 a causa delle dispute per il grano con la vicina Tolfa, dei saccheggi e, soprattutto, della diffusione della malaria.
Col suo fascino quasi intatto e la natura rigogliosa, Monterano è stato spesso utilizzato come set cinematografico. Lo amò molto Monicelli che vi girò Brancaleone alle Crociate, Il Marchese del Grillo e Guardie e Ladri. Più di recente Michele Soavi vi ha girato il suo Arrivederci amore, ciao tratto dal libro di Massimo Carlotto.
Ma altrettanta bellezza naturale accompagna quella storico-architettonica. La cittadella infatti si affaccia sulla splendida Riserva naturale caratterizzata dalla presenza variegata di boschi, pascoli e “forre”, le valli strette e incassate scavate dai corsi d’acqua. Qui domina incontrastata la felce. Molte le specie animali presenti: rapaci (nibbio, poiana e gheppio) mentre i vecchi ruderi ospitano la civetta, il barbagianni e l’allocco.
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Gli stratagemmi architettonici del Bernini, le vicende della famiglia Altieri, la descrizione delle ricchezze botaniche e faunistiche della Riserva vengono raccontati dalla bella guida all’ospitalità pubblicata anche sul sito della Riserva www.monteranoriserva.com
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